Hoppin’ Around

Yes, I know, it’s been quite a while. But I have managed to get out every now and then, so I thought I’d catch y’all up on some of my recent beer travels.

BUT FIRST, MALT

“Beer is agriculture!”

So shouts Admiral Maltings’ Ron Silberstein during a tour of the malt house during the 2nd Annual “It’s the Malt!” festival, held recently at Admiral’s Alameda facility.

Malt aerating on malting floor at Admiral Maltings, Alameda
Booth with a view at The Rake Pub, Admiral Maltings, Alameda

He is passionate about the grain, something I found out years ago while interviewing him for the chapter I contributed to this book about the geography of beer.

Admiral Maltings was founded in 2017 due at least partially to the fact that hops were hogging the spotlight.  As I mentioned in the book, the IPA explosion turned tap lists into virtual hop-varietal marquis.  While malt, the backbone of beer (Admiral’s tagline is “No Malt, No Beer”) was relegated to a supporting role, at best.  You didn’t see malt varieties on beer labels, or malt farmers glorified as much as their hop-growing counterparts.

Malt was under appreciated, and Admiral Maltings set out to help change that.

Fast-forward seven or eight years, and Silberstein’s passion continues.  Enough to where, as an alternative to festivals highlighting hoppy beer styles (IPAs!) or beer-drinking occasions (Oktoberfest!), it was time for a festival celebrating malt.

The “It’s the Malt!” festival, like the facility that that hosts it, is utterly unique and not to be missed.

Let’s start with the fact that Admiral’s pub, The Rake, is truly an astounding place to enjoy a beer.  Not just because you can see the actual malting floors from your table, but because it consistently features one of the most amazing tap lists you will ever find.

People standing in line for beer at "It's The Malt!" festivval
I bet that fancy concert in The City didn’t have this!

The common thread, of course, is that everything poured is made with Admiral malts.  This ensures not only out-of-this-world quality, but an amazing cross-section of breweries and styles.  Are you a hophead?  Check.  Dig a saison, or maybe a porter?  Check-check.  Love an impeccably brewed lager?  Check-mate.

Having a place like this host a festival?  Forget it.  If you only have room in your budget for one festival a year, make it this one.  

For starters, they turned their tap list up to 11 by featuring tents with additional taps outside.  The Lager Land tent (I doubt that big music party on the other side of the Bay had this) was pouring beers where these standout malts can really shine.

The Bay Area Mashers tent celebrated the famed homebrewing club’s 35th anniversary by featuring collabs with several local breweries.  The Bluegrass Common with Moraga’s Canyon Club, and Fool’s Gold English Golden Ale with Richmond’s East Brother were standouts.

(An aside — I was fortunate enough to later enjoy Fool’s Gold ON CASK at East Brother.  Holy cow.  Smooth, tangy, just slightly bitter, and absolutely amazing.)

So yes, the beers (and Whiskeys (!)) on offer were amazing enough.  But this wasn’t just about tasting the finished products, it was also learning about malt and interacting with it.

Display inside Admiral Maltings facility
How ’bout a little knowledge to go with that beer?

If you weren’t able to catch one of the guided tours, the malthouse was opened up for self-guided tours that included several informational displays detailing the entire malting process.

Educational seminars were also offered, right on one of the germination floors, which included talks on the optimal situations to grow malt, as well as guided sensory tastings.

So — world class beers and spirits, AND the chance to learn a thing or two about what makes beer beer?  Get to this next year, you will not regret it.

The Rake Pub at Admiral Maltings
651A W Tower Ave, Alameda
Open 7 days, check site for hours

PUB HOPPIN’

I’ve managed to squeeze in a few brewery stops while I’ve been our seeing our fine (still, I think) country. 

Bar area, Back Unturned Brewing, San Antonio
By your own bootstraps

Back Unturned Brewing, San Antonio, TX — Just off the Riverwalk north of the Downtown tourist spots sits Back Unturned Brewing.  A scrappy, feisty, DIY type of place, with concrete floors, a stainless steel bar, and tanks in full display in the dining room.  The beers are as solid as the space, with some nice IPAs and a delightful hoppy Belgian-style ale.  Full kitchen featuring pizzas, full bar, friendly space.  Worth the trek out of downtown.

516 Brooklyn Ave, San Antonio, TX 78215
Open daily at 11am

Roadmap Brewing, San Antonio, TX — Roadmap is just a few blocks from Back Unturned, although I had already built up quite a thirst in the stifling heat.  A bit more polished, the expansive building features several separate but still very open spaces to hang-out, including a serious dartboard area around the corner from the bar.

And the beers are spot on.  These folks have won their share of awards, locally and from GABF in Denver and the World Beer Cup.  Great selection of merch, and a food truck on site featuring burgers.  If you only time for one beer stop in SA, make it this one.

Interior, showing tanks, of Roadmap Brewing, San Antonio
An inviting respite from the unusual Spring heat.

723 North Alamo Street, San Antonio, TX, 78215
Open M-F 2-10pm, S-S Noon-2pm

Barhop Brewing, Sequim, WA — headed to the Pacific Northwest for a family reunion, and wouldn’t you know this place just happened to be right across the street from our hotel.  Of all the luck…

Beer taster flight at Barhop Brewing, Sequim, WA
The beers were nice, but… Worst. Logo. Ever.

This is actually the second outpost for Barhop, their main facility is in Port Angeles, just down the highway.  Not an ounce of pretension here, just good beer in an assuming, open space, with some outside seating, as well.

Pizza’s the name of the game here, as well.  We had a nice spicy Pep, with just enough pop to work well with the crispy sourdough crust.  The beers were solid as well, I particularly enjoyed a lively tart Key-Lime Chili Lager.  Just enough of everything to make it interesting and not overwhelm.

845 W Washington St, Sequim, WA 98382
Open M-Thur Noon-7pm, Fri-Sun Noon-8pm

Headlands Brewing, several East Bay locations — closer to home, Headlands is bucking the trend and gone into major expand mode as of late, and they’ve carved a pretty good niche for themselves with each of their very unique spaces.

They’re all about making the absolute most with fairly small-ish footprints, with an emphasis on family-friendliness.  Unique seating arrangements, dedicated kids’ play areas, and just enough greenery to feel like you’re hanging out in your friend’s backyard.

Beer garden seating, Headlands Brewing, Walnut Creek
The forest for the … buildings.

Walnut Creek, especially, pulls this off.  They’ve managed to create a wooded oasis in the middle of a business park right across from a BART station!  You wouldn’t think it would work, but it does.  And, bonus, this location features a full bar.

The tap list is conveniently divided by flavor profile, so you’re sure to find what you need.  Food menu features burgers, sandwiches, salads, and apps, as well as choices for the kiddos.

Hours vary by location, check their site for deets.

Lafayette — 3420 Mt. Diablo Blvd.
Berkeley — 1280 Gilman St.
Walnut Creek — 2999 Oak Rd., Suite A

The Beerverse, Version Eleventy-Billion

Yes, I’m trying to resuscitate this moribund blog yet again. But this time I’m scaling it way back to basically what it was when I started.

You see, when our beloved Celebrator Beer News basically went dark years ago, I decided I would step into the breach and provide Bay Area Craft Beer nerds with the news they were accustomed to, delivered via the interwebs on a semi-regular basis. I had a newsletter, with subscribers and everything, and even ran ads (which got zero clicks)!

Still sippin’!

All well and good. But what I didn’t realize was that the Celebrator was a full-time gig for at least one person, with lots of others contributing. I still needed to work full-time for a paycheck and benefits, so I was doing this in my free time, which I quickly discovered was not nearly enough. Especially since I’m basically lazy and found it more and more difficult to sit in front of a computer at my home after eight hours of sitting in front of one at work.

So, The Beerverse eventually pretty much shriveled up and died.

But I’m still a fan. So I figure, instead of trying to be all craft-beer things to all craft-beer people, I’m going back to basics. My Instagram feed is here, and I’m hoping to start putting up the occasional beer-related blog post now and again. Not looking to change the world, or convert the unenlightened, or even make a dime. Just me and my beery thoughts. And if I’m able to steer anyone towards a particularly outstanding beer and/or brewery, all the better.

We’re surrounded by great beer here in the Bay Area. I’m just here to let y’all know what I find. So cheers, and support your local brewery!

Brother Helping Brother: A Brewery Offers a Ray of Hope to a Lighthouse

You know the cliché, right?

The awkward first-date ice-breaker.  The lame party-game question.

“If you’re ever stranded on a deserted island, what (food/drink/celebrity/book/movie/etc) would you want with you?”

While that’s a hypothetical for just about everyone, Desiree Heveroh has been living it.

In fact, she volunteered for it.

Heveroh is the Light Station Keeper at East Brother Light Station, on the small island of East Brother in San Pablo Bay, accessible only by boat from Point San Pablo Harbor in Richmond, California.

Built in 1873, the lighthouse is owned by the US Coast Guard, but maintained and cared for by the East Brother Light Station nonprofit (of which Heveroh is an eight-year Board Member), created in late 1970s by a group of volunteers when the remaining buildings were threatened with demolition.  The group secured historic status for the buildings and has since been running the island as a rustic Bed & Breakfast .

Houseboats at Pt. San Pablo Harbor, departure point for the East Brother Light Station, Richmond, CA

Then came the pandemic, and the inn had to close to guests.  Eventually, the Keepers (screened by the nonprofit, typically for two-year terms) left the island.

But a presence was still needed to maintain the buildings and discourage vandalism and looting, and Heveroh saw her opportunity.

“I’ve always known I was going to live here.  Not wished that I was going live here … KNOWN I was going to live here.”  When the Keepers left, she realized “OH, okay, THIS is how. “

Although she was ready for the challenge, there was much to learn.  John Barnett, who served as a Keeper for a still-record 7.5 years, recommended Captain Jarrod Ward, an accomplished boat Captain.  Ward and Heveroh began their unique volunteer partnership on July 1, 2020.

“I couldn’t drive the boat or do a lot of the mechanical things yet.  Captain Jarrod spent the first several months teaching me all of the things I needed to know.”  The Light Station’s Facebook page salutes Ward’s service and credits him for teaching Heveroh “everything she knows today about surviving on this Island with & without power.  His contributions are immeasurable & none of this would be possible without him.”

Sea lions sunning on West Brother Island. Mt. Tamalpais in the background.

The training has indeed come in handy.

“Oh, the upkeep is never-ending,” says Heveroh.  “There’s never been a time when everything was good and we didn’t need to fix something.  The salt air just erodes — if it’s made out of metal, it’ll rust away.  If it’s made out of wood, it turns to dust.  The handrail up the gangway and the fence around the whole island both need to be replaced, the piles that hold the landing dock are hollow.

“Maintaining this magic is a never-ending financial obligation.  We were going to focus our efforts on getting those things repaired when the cable gave out.  So it really set us back.”

The cable Heveroh’s referring to isn’t for television, as there’s no TV or Wifi on the island (did I mention it was rustic?).  It’s the literal cable the runs along the bay floor that provides the island’s electricity.

On April 1st (no fooling), it failed.

D’oh!

Which left Heveroh and Ward literally stranded on the island.

As I mentioned, the only way to get to and from the island is by boat.  The boat requires a hoist to raise it up from and lower it into the water.

No power, no hoist.  No hoist, no transportation.

Captain Ward, confident in Heveroh’s training and abilities to maintain the lighthouse on her own, moved off the island to continue working his day job.  He did check in weekly and caught rides from the kind folks at the Harbor to deliver anything she needed.

The island does have a small additional source of power — a 1930’s-era generator, which Heveroh ran a couple of hours a day to keep her refrigerated and frozen food from spoiling, and to charge the backup batteries that power the actual lighthouse light, which continues to operate as an operational Aid to Navigation (the lights were upgraded to LED in 2012).

The game room. The olden-days version of WiFi.

When the generator’s starter recently failed, she required the services of machinist Steve Phillips who specializes in antiques to make the replacement parts, who then video-coached her to make the repairs herself.

She used a small wood-burning stove in her tiny quarters for heat, burning eucalyptus bark and other branches she gathers from around the island.

The power cable failed once before, from a lightning strike in the early 1990s.  While the Coast Guard replaced it then, this time they have other plans.  Since their only responsibility is to ensure the actual light in the tower works, they plan on powering it with a small solar array, which is much less expensive than replacing the cable.

This will, however, leave the remaining buildings in complete darkness.  The nonprofit will need to come up with the funds itself, which seems like a very tall order.  A new cable plus installation could run as high as $1 million.

Help a Brother Out

But just like 40+ years ago when the historic Light Station buildings were threatened, the community is rallying.  The nonprofit has started a Gofundme campaign, which so far has raised more than 50% of their goal.

The Light Station’s plight has especially resonated with its namesake, East Brother Beer Company.

“We named ourselves after the island,” says brewery Co-Founder Rob Lightner.  “There’s so many events and fundraisers and initiatives and causes out there, you can’t do everything.  You have to allocate your time and prioritize.  Of course, with this one, it was like, ‘Yeah, we HAVE to do this.’”

East Brother (the brewery) is donating 20% of the sales of select beers to the cause.  The decision which beers to use was really a no-brainer, says Lightner.  “You know — freighter, bay, water, lighthouse.  Let’s just use the Freighter Series.”

Aside from the name, a number of other elements came together to make the choice an easy one.

COVID made determining the brewery’s “packaging mix” a constant moving target.  “How much do we put in cans, how much in kegs, how much does the taproom get, how much goes out into distribution?” says Lightner.

Long story short, they wound up with excess Freighter Series kegs in inventory.  “Usually we churn through those and sell out, but with the pandemic that didn’t happen.”

Which wound up being a blessing.

“If it’s a fragile IPA or a beer that doesn’t last long, you’re kinda out of luck.  The good thing with the Freighter Series beers, like the Russian Imperial Stout and the Belgian Tripel, they get better with age and have a longer shelf-life.  They’re big, they’re bold, people are willing to pay more.  So that’s great.  We’ll generate a little revenue to donate and act as a bullhorn or megaphone to get the word out.”

This cistern, which captures rainwater, is the sole water source for the island. During our extreme drought, water must be barged in.

But you’ll need to travel to Richmond to chip in, as the fundraiser is limited to taproom-only draft sales.  Putting any extra in cans for distribution just wasn’t in the cards.

“We’re just so busy simply fulfilling orders right now.  Designing [more] labels, getting [more] cans, we just don’t have the bandwidth honestly.  We even talked about brewing a special beer, but we went from decent volume before the pandemic to all of a sudden hitting capacity.”

The uptick in demand for canned beer indeed caught the brewery by surprise.

Lightner recalls a recent conversation with Head Brewer Paul Liszewski, who said, “‘I think we have to go contract somewhere, we need to find a brewery, we’re out of fermentation space.’  We had to go out and get another tank just to keep up with demand!

“So we immediately put out a note on [a local] forum, ‘Does anybody have fermentors?’  We found a 100-barrel fermentor, which will take us from 600- to 700-barrel capacity.  Depending on your lager/ale mix, you can brew anywhere from 8000 to 12,000 barrels in a year.”

So Bay Area folks, if you want to literally help someone stranded (although Heveroh would be the first to say it’s never felt like that) on an island and enjoy some top-notch beers in the process, head to Richmond and catch a Freighter.  The fundraiser continues as long as the kegs do.

Other Richmond businesses are chipping in, as well.  The Factory Bar, Catahoula Coffee Company, and Tacos El Tucan, which have formed a coalition called The San Pablo Avenue Business District, are selling themed merch, coffee, and cocktails, with all profits going to the Lighthouse.

The Richmond-San Rafael Bridge, as seen from the Lighthouse tower. Trust me, this is a MUCH better view than commuting across it twice a day.

EPILOGUE

At one point during my Light Station tour, Heveroh is showing me the kitchen.  “It’s a pretty good size, got some good appliances, and they all require lots of power, which we don’t ha…”

As if on cue, the refrigerator springs to life.

“Did the power just go on?”

“I heard something running!” I reply.

“Maybe it’s working!,” she says, excitedly.

She runs outside and shouts to Kristen Gates, Light Station Board Treasurer who was with us on that day helping out an electrician at the island’s power terminal, “The refrigerator went on!”

Gates replies, “We have power!  We did it!”

“Everywhere?”

“Yep!”

The dining room.

Gates had been working on for weeks to repair the cable, assembling a very capable crew including an electrician, boat captain with his Tug, and her exceedingly capable brother Brian Gates.  

They pulled up enough cable to expose the damaged portion, remove it, and splice in a new section.  But power still wasn’t flowing.  Apparently, on that day, while I was there, they made the connection.

Heveroh, apologizing several times for being distracted, continued with the tour.

“I can’t believe we have power, it’s been two months!  I get to take a shower today, I’m so excited!”

Although power has been temporarily reestablished, Heveroh knows it isn’t a permanent fix.  She likens her situation to being upgraded from the ICU to a regular hospital bed.  While the patient is stable, she still needs monitoring.

Since the nonprofit always encourages donations anyway due to the considerable expense of maintaining and repairing a nearly 150-year-old inn in the middle of the bay, Heveroh is hopeful they can take advantage of the newfound awareness and momentum they’ve created.

“The splice won’t hold forever and then we will be in exactly the same spot,” she says.  “We still need to replace the cable with a brand new one that still carries a hefty price tag, but this will give us enough time to raise those funds.”

To those who have already donated, Heveroh says “We’ve got power, but we still have these other things going on.  Thank you so much for showing up.  If you want to contribute to [our other repair projects], great, thank you!”

With power hopefully restored and vaccination rates increasing, East Brother Light Station is targeting September to reopen for guests, which will help tremendously with the funding they need for the replacement cable. 

One of the quaint guest rooms, which the Light Station hopes to have occupied again by September.

Heveroh knows at that point it will be time for her move on, as a minimum of two Keepers are needed to maintain the buildings and host guests.

“This job is incredibly demanding.  There’s a lot of work on non-guest days — they have to haul all the laundry, get it done, fuel the boat, shop for the next week’s worth of guests.  There’s no down time.”  Guest stays are Thursdays-Sundays, so the Keepers “miss all of their families’ special occasions, which usually take place on weekends.  You’re signing your life away to the island.”

Although the bond she’s formed with her temporary home is obvious (she repeatedly calls her time there “magical” and refers to the lighthouse as “she”), Heveroh is okay with moving on.

“I expected three months when I moved in.  So every day after that has been bonus.  She needs to touch more lives.  No one else, in her 148-year history, has had a situation here like I’ve had, with her.  So we had our special time that was just for us.  And I’m grateful for it.”

As to the next chapter?

“I’m actually going to do a little tour of West Coast lighthouses that have accommodations.”

When I mention that sounds like great material for a book, she smiles knowingly.

“I’ve already thought of the title — ‘Isle Be Our Brother’s Keeper.’”

Love Beer? Join the (Beer Buyers) Club!

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen my reviews of beers from far-flung places around the country, and a mention that I received them via The Beer Connoisseur’s Beer Buyers Club.

Before I go into my experiences with the club, I should mention how I came to join.

The Beer Connoisseur (TBC) approached me several months ago with a proposition.  If I joined the Beer Buyers Club, wrote a few words about it, and advertised their magazine on my site, they would provide a free subscription and an opportunity to write a guest blog post for them.

So full disclosure, I am being compensated with the subscription and a small percentage of any sales via the affiliate link on my site (that banner ad you see at the top of the page).  However, I am paying full fare as a club member, which can get pretty pricey in a hurry if you don’t watch yourself.  More on that shortly.

I should also say that this partnership has provided me with something much more than a subscription.  TBC’s editor liked my guest post so much it’s now a feature story in their latest issue, and I’ve been brought on as one of their regular contributors for future issues!

I’m a real beer writer!

But I digress.  Back to the club.

The Beer Buyers Club is run through a partnership with the beer-buying site Tavour.  Simply download the app, create an account, and you’re on your way.  TBC even gives you a coupon code to save $10 on your first order (of at least $25).

Buying beer through the app is easy.  A little too easy, actually.  A couple of times a day you get a notification of the latest beer on offer.  If you’re interested, go to the app, read the write-up, and if you want it, add as many as you want to your “crate” and the app automatically charges your card on file.  Prices can vary greatly, from about $4 to upwards of $40 or more per beer, depending on style and rarity.

Your crate is shipped roughly monthly, although you can adjust ship dates if needed.  Shipping to a business address is recommended, as a signature is needed for delivery.  Shipping is flat rate (about $15) regardless of the size of your order.

My favorite feature of the club is having access to beer I don’t normally see here in California.  At first it was a lot of fun adding beers from all over the U.S., from Indiana to Maryland, Arizona to New York, and Colorado to Alaska, to name just a few.

But I learned quickly that pacing myself is key.  At two offerings a day, not only can it get expensive, but my fridge would overflow quickly.  I’ve averaged roughly about 18 beers a month, which is about as much as I’m comfortable with, both expense- and storage-wise.

Styles pretty much run the gamut, although naturally Hazies and DIPAs are the most featured.  (Since I live in the Bay Area and already have easy access to some of the finest examples in the country, it’s become easier for me to pass those by.)  Tavour also seems quite fond of monster Stouts, especially of the Pastry variety.  I’ll grab one now and then, depending on the particular slant (coffee stouts and porters are pretty much an automatic “yes!”).

Another benefit is the opportunity to expand my horizons.  I’ll snag a Fruited Sour and even a Gose now and then, styles I have traditionally been averse to.  It’s a great way to educate the palate without having to commit to a four-pack or more.

If there’s a drawback (besides the too-easy ability to run up a pretty big tab), it’s understanding the magazine’s tie in.  TBC does send weekly email updates about featured beers, which is great.  But aside from that, you don’t get any specifics about when they’ll be available, so it’s impossible to set a reminder.  And I really don’t know if the beers they feature are exclusive to Beer Buyers Club members, or if everyone on Tavour has access to them.

TBC also stages virtual Happy Hours with some of the brewers of those featured beers, which is a nice bonus.  But on top of trying to remember to order those beers, you also need to coordinate your ship dates so you can get them in time to enjoy during the discussions.  It’s a bit too much planning for my feeble brain.

My only other complaint is Tavour’s customer service.  I had to make changes to a shipment, and got no response after leaving several messages.  The issue was ultimately handled, but follow-up was minimal, at best.  I’m just chalking it up to staffing issues due to the pandemic and/or the popularity of the app.

Overall, these are minor quibbles.  Having beers otherwise unavailable to me shipped to my (office) door has been a blast.  It’s like Christmas whenever my new crate arrives.  I’d recommend the Beer Buyers Club for that alone.  It IS quite a bit of fun.

Oh, and if after reading my article you decide you’d like to subscribe to The Beer Connoisseur, click on that banner up top. You’ll save some $$, and I’ll get some $$. How’s THAT for a win-win?

And one final note.  No matter if your beer is from across town or across the country, be sure to enjoy them safely at home as much as possible.  If you must venture out, stay socially distant, and for cryin’ out loud, WEAR YOUR DAMN MASK!!!!

Cheers, y’all!

Local Breweries Offering Beer To-Go/Delivery

Might be here a while, so…

As a public service to my fellow beer enthusiasts (cuz who KNOWS when we’ll be able to congregate again), I’m keeping a quick list of local breweries offering to-go and/or delivery service.  These are my closest places to start, I’ll continually add and update this list as time/info dictates, so check back often.

And please, SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL BREWERS!!!  Tip ginormously if possible.  They’ve all taken a big hit, and if you want to see them around once we’re past this, give ‘em whatever $$$ you can spare!

And brewers, if you wanna get on this list, send me your deets!  Hit me up on my contact page.


  • Armistice Brewing, Richmond — open daily 2-8pm to to-go orders.  Pre-ordering strongly encouraged — go here.
  • East Brother Brewing, Richmond — to-go pickup available daily 2-7pm, again order online in advance.  Delivery also available to Richmond, San Pablo, El Sobrante, Pinole, Hercules (yay!), El Cerrito, or Albany.  Deets here.
  • Del Cielo Brewing, Martinez — open Friday-Sunday 2-5pm for pickup.  Order online for same-day pickup.
  • Origin Brewer, Richmond — limited growler and keg sales for Richmond and El Cerrito.  Contact them here to make arrangements.
  • Elevation 66 Brewing, El Cerrito — food and beer available to-go, order here.  Hours differ depending on menu, see site for details.
  • Mare Island Brewing, Vallejo — to-go food and drink (including wine!) available at their Ferry Taproom only, daily Noon-7pm.  Order here.
  • Ocean View Brew Works, Albany — to-go and delivery available.  For info, check out their app.
  • Gilman Brewing, Berkeley — open daily 1-8 for to-go beer and food orders.  Oder here.

Keep checking back for updates.  A long-distance glass-clink to all!

My Picks for SF Beer Week ’20

Yet another Beer Week is upon us here in the Bay Area.  Here’s my annual list of events I would attend if I had the week off, could be in multiple places at once, and a cast-iron liver.

All events are pay as you go unless otherwise noted.

Friday 2/7

Opening Gala, Pier 35, SF — 6pm (5pm VIP)
What hasn’t already been said about the mother of all beer bashes? Hundreds upon hundreds of beers, many made just for Beer Week, great food, yadda, yadda, yadda. Do yourself a favor — have a plan, pace yourself, and hydrate! Don’t even think you’re gonna be able to try all of these. $80, $125 VIP. [Full disclosure, the Bay Area Brewers Guild has covered my entry for the event. Thanks guys!]

Saturday 2/8

After sleeping off the debauchery from the previous night, any events this day will have to be late afternoon/early evening.  That said:

Moksa Special Release, Holy Water, SF — 4pm
Got introduced to Moksa Brewing at last year’s Celebration of Craft.  Just amazing stuff coming out of this brewery in Rocklin, about an hour NE of Sacramento.  The release in question is a WL Weller barrel-aged stout, and they’ll have other offerings, as well.  Should be tremendous.

Sunday 2/9

Johnny Doughnuts & Pond Farm Brewing Collaboration Release Party — Pond Farm Brewing, San Rafael,  11am-3pm
I work in San Rafael, so I’ve been fortunate enough to enjoy Pond Farm’s terrific brews (including the GABF Bronze-medal-winning Devil’s Gulch Hazy IPA) many times.  The Old-Fashioned Donut Stout should be amazing.  Side note — JD has an outpost just down the street, next to the Pint Size Lounge, the diviest beer bar this side of Toronado.

Coast Side Brew Bus, Pacifica Brewery, Pacifica — 11:30am-3:30pm
$75 gets you on a bus to travel along the coast from Pacifica Brewery to Pedro Point Brewing, Half Moon Bay Brewing, and Hop Dogma Brewing.  Are you kidding?

Pinball & Pints, Pacific Pinball Museum, Alameda — 2-6pm
I adore pinball.  As a kid we even a machine in our house, which was the coolest thing ever.  $50 gets you unlimited tastings from at least 10 breweries, and free play on more than 100 machines.  TILT!

Monday 2/10

Too many great things on this day.  My highlights:

Bigfoot Vertical, Sierra Nevada Torpedo Room, Berkeley — Noon
Bet you forgot about the Torpedo Room, didn’t ya?  SN is still in my top five breweries, and they’ve released their 40th Anniversary ale this month.  Anyway, offerings here supposedly to date back to 2014.  If you like aged beer, this is the place.

L•Oak*als Only, Beer Revolution, Oakland — Noon
I’m an East Bay native, and I’m all about the local.  Oakland’s beer scene is just stupid great these days, and there’s no better place to enjoy them than the East Bay’s answer to the Toronado, Beer Revolution.

Peet’s & 21st Amendment 1966 Release Party, 21st Amendment Brewpub, SF — 6-9pm
Two of my favorite things on the planet are beer and Peet’s coffee.  They’ve collaborated with 21st Amendment on a Coffee IPA.  HELLOOOOO!!

Tuesday 2/11

Friends w/Beer Benefits ft. Sante Adairius, Triple Rock Brewery, Berkeley — 11:30am
C’mon, it’s Sante Adairius flights at the East Bay’s OG brewpub.  ‘Nuff said.

The Roost 2020, Night 4, Picnic on 3rd, San Francisco — 7-10pm
Henhouse Brewing’s wildly popular popup restaurant The Roost returns, with a different cuisine each night.  This night it’s Southern Spanish with Chef Christina Alexis of The Pleasure Principle.  Four courses, each paired with beer, $75.  They had me at Henhouse.

Wednesday 2/12

#WomxnCrushWednesday, The Rare Barrel, Berkeley — 4pm
Although there has been some progress, the industry in general still has a representation problem.  This event hopes to do something about that.  Featuring beers from breweries with womxn in leadership roles, as well as presentations on hiring/training practices, resume building, interview skills, and networking from leading womxn in the industry.

Game Night: Cards Against Humanity Tournament, Laughing Monk Brewing, SF — 6pm
Please note, Cards Against Humanity is all sorts of wrong, so this event is best avoided by those with weak constitutions and poor senses of humor.  The rest of you will laugh your asses off.

Thursday 2/13

Changing Hands, The Alembic, San Francisco — 4pm
As I said, I’m all about the local, and it doesn’t get more local than this.  The event organizers say it best:

“We are teaming up with Admiral Maltings to give you an experience unlike any other. Try beers that have been made with local malt, which has also been fed to livestock producing local cheeses, and have a fresh hopped cocktail using local hops.”

sfbeerweek.org

Morgan Territory & Slow Hand BBQ Takeover, Hops & Scotch, Walnut Creek — 5:30-8:30pm
If you can’t swing the trip all the way to Tracy, head to the Dub-C to get your Morgan Territory fix.  They make some amazin’ beer (Motorboatin’ IPA is a fave), and paired with some killer BBQ?  What’s not to love?

Friday 2/14

Dessert and Beer Pairing w/Live Music, Speakeasy Ales & Lagers, SF — 3pm
Sweets.  Dancing.  Beers.  A chance to visit the resurrected Speakeasy.  MY heart’s all aflutter.

‘80s Prom Night Valentine’s w/Modern Times, The Willows, SF — 6pm
I was a teen in the ‘80s (Ferris Bueller is STILL the greatest movie of all time, and I’ll fight you), and I LOVE Modern Times, so here you go.  Complete with an all ‘80s playlist AND prizes for best outfits.  Although there’s no way I can squeeze into my Miami Vice suit anymore.

Saturday 2/15

For the beer geeks, I was reeeeally tempted to go with Rich Higgins’ Beer Immersion trip to Alameda.  Yes, it’ll run you $175, but you leave from Fort Point at the Ferry Building, take a ferry to Alameda, and hit Faction Brewing, Admiral Maltings (with lunch at The Rake), and Almanac Brewing.  Just an amazing day-long event.  But…

5th Annual East Bay Non-IPA Tap Takeover, Tiger’s Taproom, Oakland — 2pm
If you’re like me, your palate is probably hop-saturated by now.  So stop by Tiger’s just off of Jack London Square and reset yourself.

Celebration of Craft, Trumer Brewery, Berkeley — 4-8pm
I attended last year, and will again this year (thanks, CCBA!).  This successor to the (in)famous Celebrator party is the unofficial closing event of Beer Week, and a great bookend (or alternative) to the Gala monstrosity.  $65 gets you a meal ticket (food is good!), unlimited pours, and a manageable crowd.  And let me tell you, there’s some great stuff here.  A certain extremely limited TIPA from the North Bay was poured here last year, and the lines weren’t incredibly stupid.

Sunday 2/16

3rd Anniversary Party, East Brother Beer Co., Richmond — Noon
Another shout-out to one of my locals.  East Brother is old school.  No glitters, bruts, or hazys.  Just solid core beers, with an emphasis on outstanding lagers (including their GABF Silver-Winning Bo Pils), and a great cast of rotating seasonals.  And a bonus — they’re releasing a California Common collaboration with Admiral Maltings and Gigayeast.  Trust me, these guys have it dialed in.


So there you have it.  And if for some bizarre reason these events don’t brew your beer, check out sfbeerweek.org for the entire lineup.  It’s statistically impossible for there NOT to be something close to you that you’ll dig.  Cheers, y’all!

The Pilgrimage — Russian River Brewing, Windsor, CA

{Editor’s Note: All quotes in this post are from Natalie Cilurzo. Got tired of thinking of clever ways to stick attributions in.}

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Like a lot of beer nerds, Russian River Brewing has long been one of my all-time faves.  My first taste of Pliny the Elder at a long-ago Bistro IPA festival was amazing, my first of Younger even more so.  I was thrilled when co-owner Natalie Cilurzo agreed to an interview here a couple of years back.  Really gave me a feeling of legitimacy.

So on the drive to their new brewery and restaurant in Windsor, I felt like a kid heading to an amusement park.  Only here, the featured attraction is beer.

I got there a little early (and yes, I did go to the right place this time) and waited in the spacious main lobby, featuring several comfy leather chairs around a stone fireplace.

Unlike the original Santa Rosa pub, a long, narrow space stuffed to the brim most days, spaciousness abounds here.  There are separate spaces for tours, gift shop, and restaurant, each with its own entrance.

Large groups are accommodated by two communal tables made of long, wood planks, separated by a half-wall across from the bar.  More seating is behind the bar, and still more seating, plus another bar, is beyond in an auxiliary, sun-room type space.

All of this is surrounded by windows, filling everything with light.  Another departure from Santa Rosa.

Natalie cheerfully greeted me (of course), and we were off on the tour.

RRBC’s Field of Dreams

Windsor is truly a ground-up facility.  The site was previously an empty field.  They did everything, from prep work and grading, to installing all needed utilities.

And, also unlike Santa Rosa, the site includes two acres of free parking, “which was vital during Pliny the Younger,” says Natalie.

Controlling all aspects of construction allowed them to minimize their overall environmental footprint.

“We could incorporate a lot of sustainable things if you do it from the ground up.  Our parking lots are very green, we actually don’t have any storm drains on the property.  All of that water either gets absorbed into the ground or flows out to the wetlands.

We have four acres of wetlands to the west that we own, it’s quite beautiful.  I was out taking pictures this morning of some egrets, we have baby egrets out there.  We have geese and ducks and red-tail hawks.”

When the people responsible for a triple-IPA release that gathers international attention get the chance to build a brand new facility from scratch, you’d expect everything to be state of the art.

And you’d be correct.

Over the (Open) Top

The new brewhouse features open-top fermenting, which allows the yeast to move more freely in the wort because the CO² that’s produced is allowed to escape.  Imported from Germany, these specific tanks are only used by two other facilities in the U.S. — Sierra Nevada (North Carolina) and Wisconsin’s New Glarus.

The ventilation system is so advanced the fermentation space resembles a clean room.  All fresh air pumped into the room goes through a Hepa filter AND UV light.

They’ve built their own sensory lab, for employee education as well as to maintain consistency between their Santa Rosa and Windsor breweries.

They also now have a yeast propagation cellar, so they can grow their own yeast.

According to Natalie, they still buy yeast “but we’re trying to get away from that for cost and quality control.  It takes a lot of wort to grow yeast, so that’s been kind of expensive for us.  We’re waiting until we get our new pilot brewery installed, that way we can make wort and not waste it.”

The new brewery is truly an international affair.  The majority of their brewhouse came from Ziemann, another German company.  And their new, high-tech bottling line is from GAI in Italy.

“This is quite a bit bigger than our last bottling line.  It can do up to 200 bottles a minute, right now we’re running at about 130.  That’s all we really need to do.”

Watching a bottling line can be pretty mesmerizing as it is, but the palletizer is where the magic really happens on this system.

After the boxes are folded, filled, and glued, they run down a conveyer to a pallet.  Every few boxes or so, a portion of the conveyer belt’s sidewall kicks out, turning the orientation of the box, not unlike turning a Tetris piece.

The pattern continues, with every few boxes turned, so that the maximum number fits on each layer of the pallet.  It also gives each pallet more stability, as not each layer is arranged the same way.

Trust me, it’s almost hypnotic to watch as each layer gets stacked.  Even a veteran like Natalie says, “I can watch it all day!”

“Anybody who’s ever worked on a bottling line, this is their favorite part.”

Heading to the Altar

She then leads me to the sour, or what they call the “funky” brewery.

“One of the reasons we built a new brewery was we wanted a separate area for our sour beers.  This is actually a separate building that’s attached to the other building.”

In the old Santa Rosa production brewery, the regular and sour breweries were in the same space, albeit on opposite ends.  The threat of cross-contamination was constant, to the point that all equipment used in the funky space, down to hoses and buckets, were marked with red tape so as not to be accidentally walked over to the other side.  Anyone who worked on the funky side had to stay there for the entirety of their shift.

They have about 900 barrels in the sour wing, and they’ve  utilized their old bottling line here.  “That way we don’t have any cross-contamination.  We have one brewer that this is the only place he works.”

Then I was led to a place that can only be called a cathedral, down to the gothic door that opens into it.

“We got this door on e-bay, isn’t that funny?  It’s old wood with new construction, which I appreciate.  I’d rather have the modern hinges, right?”

This is the Koelschip room.

A Koelschip (or coolship) is a big, shallow, open tank.  Hot wort is pumped in and allowed to sit.  In the evenings, the windows that surround the room are opened, allowing the breezes to cool the wort.

These breezes also carry wild yeast, which inoculates the wort and begins fermentation.  These “wild” beers are the closest approximation to what winemakers call “terroir.”  Brewers usually use very specific yeast strains when brewing, as they know exactly what that yeast will do to a beer as it’s fermenting.

But when using Koelschips, brewers are at the mercy of the local yeasts flying through the air.  Wild beers are truly fascinating, filled with all kinds of funky flavors.  They are also quite expensive, as brewing with this technique is very labor intensive and only makes a small amount of beer.

This kind of brewing can only be done during the cool winter and early spring months, otherwise the wort won’t get cool enough overnight.

Even the materials used in this sacred, wood-clad space have a story.

“All of this wood is from Sierra Nevada Mills River (North Carolina).  We told [owner] Ken [Grossman] what we wanted to do and he said ‘I have a bunch of lumber left over from harvesting all of the trees for the brewery.’  He had a barn that was full of wood, and we got it … Yellow and White Pine.”

The Good … and Not So Good

We finish up the tour with a quick look through the self-guided section.  Windsor offers two types of tours.  The scheduled guided tours are $15 and include tasting.

(Pro-tip:  try to book a tour during the Younger release in February.  Younger is included in the tastings, and it’s probably the only way you’ll get to try it without a long wait.)

Self-guided tours are free and don’t require reservations.  No tastings, though.  Although, nothing’s stopping you from ordering a beer at the bar and taking it with you as you check out the facility.

After the tour, I asked Natalie if the new facility has worked out as planned in relieving pressure at the original Santa Rosa pub.

“Yes … especially during Pliny the Younger.  The waits downtown were not four or five hours, they were one or two, or maybe three hours.  Even on the weekends downtown isn’t as crazy.”

Although opening their new location has pretty much gone as planned, as they’ve grown to 200 employees, staffing is a constant struggle.

“We have record low unemployment in California, and we’re in a serious housing crisis right now.  The fires that hit us in the middle of construction didn’t help.  We’re having a really hard time finding employees and keeping them, and being able to pay them a wage where they can [almost] afford to live here.”

Did they envision this kind of success, to be able to build a gleaming new facility on this scale, with all its bells and whistles?

“Yeah, this is exactly what we envisioned.  I mean, it’s bigger than what we originally envisioned, but the job of the design team is to take our vision out of our heads, put it on paper, and then build it.  So yes, this is exactly what we envisioned, and then some.  It was a grand vision.”

Mad Fritz: Making Original Beer

As a winemaker, Nile Zacherle knows well the vital role ingredients play in the fermentation sciences.

Not just knowing what they are, but where they came from, will dictate how the winemaker approaches them, both in recipe and process, to produce the desired result.

The same is true of brewing, as viewed through Zacherle’s winemaker perspective.

Origin Beer

“I think we’ve always known why [Mad Fritz is] brewing what we’re brewing — it’s about showcasing the origin and authenticity of the ingredients and the flavors that come with that…creating origin beer as kind of a sub-niche of craft beer.  And to create more of a local culture with raw materials.”

That means controlling those raw materials down to their exact specifications, using locally sourced, organically grown hops and barley, which they actually malt on their very own malting floor at their brewery in St. Helena.

You might think, brewing in Napa Valley with a winemaking background, Zacherle’s facilities would reflect Napa’s opulence, with an expansive brewery floor featuring shiny copper kettles.

Brewing, even in Napa Valley, ain’t glamorous.

Au contrare.  The tiny brewery betrays the fairly lofty prices Mad Fritz can command for a bottle.

“We’re a pretty old-school brewery,” says Zacherle.  “There’s no cold box.  There’s no real refrigeration other than for tanks.  It goes to barrel, comes out of barrel, goes to a bright beer tank, [in] just the climate of the space.  We don’t even have HVAC, which is a problem during the summer.  It stays in the low 70s, but it’s not ideal.”

The facility’s fluctuating temperatures can thus dictate what types of beer can be brewed when.

“Certainly [during the winter] it’s lager time.  Everything is great when it’s in barrel when it’s cold.  Everything’s dropping into the 50-55º zone in barrel right now, and that’s just beautiful.  If I had all the money in the world I’d have a barrel room that I could keep at 55º year round, with humidification, etc.  That would be sweet.”

Another unique aspect of Mad Fritz’ process is aging.  All beers — all of them — are aged in barrel, anywhere from two weeks for IPAs to up to four months for Belgian styles, although each beer will tell him when its ready.

Tanks, but no tanks.

“The beer has a dimension from the barrel, from the aging, from that extraction process, when it comes to stasis with the barrel itself,” says Zacherle.  “The barrel element is subtle yet powerful, adding a unique dimension to the beers’ personality.  There are certainly times when you taste a beer from barrel and think ‘This is coming out soon.  It’s really hitting!’”

Although Zacherle prefers to leave them in barrel as long as possible, some beers just don’t measure up to expectations.

“There have been beers that have sat too long and just didn’t make the cut and need to be dumped out.  This forces introspection of what you are doing and not [wanting to waste] any more time on something that doesn’t have the level of quality we expect in our beers. “

$ + $$ = $$$

So why make such labor-intensive beer, in such a small space, and charge a pretty penny for them?

“Ideally, it’s how to do you make better beer, not how to do cut costs.  A lot of people think the inverse of that.  ‘How do I make more money?  I’ve got to shorten the brews so my labor [costs are] lower.  If I can increase brewhouse efficiency, we can save on ingredients.’”

Zacherle avoids this model, which means not having something that could be considered a flagship.

“When you adhere to the most conventional way we as consumers have purchased and consumed our product, we’re like, ‘Well, [this brewery] makes X.  I want X.  I drink X.’  And they do Y, Z, and that becomes this kind of platform.  ‘These are our beers.’  It’s easy for people to adhere to.

“But it also kind of gets boring, too.  We have 40 different beers we make, and they’re all in rotation.  We don’t sell a lot of doppelbock, but dammit, we’re brewing it.  Because it’s just a great beer.”

“Ideally, it’s how to do you make better beer, not how to do cut costs.”

Nile Zacherle, Mad Fritz Brewing Co.

Making such unique, ingredient-driven, small-batch beers in such an expensive labor market isn’t exactly kind to his bottom-line, either.

“That’s one of the things that’s different with our business is that, it’s just really expensive to be here,” says Zacherle.  “Not only do we charge accordingly because of that, but we charge accordingly for the process and what we do with the raw materials.  The zip code doesn’t help.

“Because of that, you have to pay salaries that are twice, three times what other communities might be paying their brewers or sales managers, because it just costs more to live here.  And if you want a good sales person you gotta pay, otherwise you’re just not gonna get anybody good.”

Fabled Beer

“All the beers are named after Aesops Fables,” says Zacherle.

“The fables were something my wife thought of.  I thought of [the brewery] name, named after our children, Madilyn and Fritz.

“Sometimes I get so seduced by the image itself, the Francis Barlow artwork.  We acquired a 300-year-old printing of this fable book so we could expand the images a little bit more and get better resolution.  It’s all public domain, it’s 300-, 400-years old.”

While sometimes it’s just a fable’s image that drives a name, the moral of the story can also say something about the beer itself.

“‘The Wind and Sun’ just really reflected our platform.  The moral of the fable is gentle persuasion is more effective than brute force.  The Sun slowly warming versus the Wind trying to blow the jacket off of the traveler.

“If you truly love beer, you need to open your mind a little.  Experience other beers.”

Nile Zacherle

“The beer speaks for itself, the raw materials speak for themselves.  The gentle persuasion — complexity can come from simplicity.  Those concepts are parallel.”

How about the moral of their Biere de Garde, “The Boy who Cried Wolf?”

“I love the image.  But there’s a double-entendre with it.  It was supposed to be a golden ale.  When it looked basically brown and amber, I was like ‘Hey, something’s up.’

“I texted the maltster.  ‘Hey, this is not pale malt.  This is a brown malt.’  So I kind of cried wolf a little bit, but there was really a wolf there!  So I turned it into a new beer.  I’m going to use the same hops, and do everything I normally do.  But I’m going to turn it into a Biere de Garde.”

Water is an Ingredient, too

Zacherle was kind enough to pour several beers during my visit.  Nothing exhibited what kind of difference even one ingredient can make than a side-by-side tasting of The Donkey and Thistle pale lager.  They were identical except for one thing — the water source.  One was made with spring water from Angwin, the other from Lewelling Vineyards.

Water, water, from everywhere…

“The Angwin’s the softest spring water in Napa Valley,” Zacherle explains.  “Lewelling’s one of the harder waters, and that’s literally a stone’s throw from here.  The generalization with harder water is that it accentuates bitterness because it dries out the palate.”

I could immediately tell the difference.  The beer made with Angwin water fanned out more evenly across the palate, with a longer finish.  The Lewelling beer had a snappier, drier finish that readied the palate for whatever was next.

Zacherle continued.  “In the Angwin, you can see how the softer water gives it a teddy-bear-hug.  It’s just softer, rounder, easier.  It’s like the harder water adds a bit more more edginess to it.  A lot of people have said it’s almost like a pale ale, there’s that sharpness to it.”

Beer in Wine Country, or Wine in Beer Country?

Being a winemaker, Zacherle knows how to market for a wine-country audience.  Mad Fritz bottles certainly reflect that, with stopper caps and labels that echo high-end Napa wines.  Their uniqueness and terroir-driven backstories seem perfectly suited to wine-centric palates.

And world-class restaurants, including the famed French Laundry, have noticed and now feature Mad Fritz on their drink lists.

“I have not met Thomas Keller or consulted with him, I’ve been working with his sommeliers and chefs.  I think we’re very much in concert with his approach.  When you’re cheffing at that level, you’ve got to be thinking origin, sourcing, farmers.  You have to go all the way to the ground and build up.

“I understand ‘The Old Man and Death’ is drinking exquisitely right now…”

“We’ve done custom beers for The Restaurant at Meadowood, the French Laundry, made a thyme beer that’s going to Geranium, the restaurant in Copenhagen.”

When you make the beverage lists from some the world’s top restaurants, there’s a danger of projecting an image of being inaccessible, something out of reach for the masses.

Bringing the Taps to the People

To alleviate that, and get Mad Fritz beers into the mouths of more people, Zacherle recently did what most Napa beverage makers do — opened a tasting room.  (The brewery was previously open for visits by appointment only.)  The Mad Fritz taproom opened just a few blocks away from the brewery in St. Helena in April 2018.

Okay, on the outside it’s fairly modest, but the inside…

As opposed to most winery tasting palaces, Mad Fritz’ taproom is modest, almost sparse.  A few tables are scattered around the smallish space, with mostly barren, cream-colored walls that feature a few printed photos, and of course the Frances Barlow artwork displayed prominently behind the bar.  A small table with a turntable and several LPs adds a touch of hipness.

Zacherle explained, “The tap room has allowed us be a little bit more accessible.  The by-appointment platform is a bit limiting to folks who just want a beer.  You don’t want to turn those people away.  They want a beer!”

The taproom is also a way to “show you what origin beer’s about.  That’s an opportunity to teach someone about what we’re doing.  They may not buy that much beer, but at least they’ve had a really cool experience.  I think overall it’s been a good step.”

is, okay, mostly kind of modest.

Offering their 11 taps in three-, five-, and 10-ounce pours allows patrons to customize their experience to try as many or as few beers as they like.  Nearly everything is available for purchase, although they do from time to time pour membership-only bottlings.

Don’t bother looking for a chalkboard with the days’ tap selections.  All beers are listed on an extensive tasting menu which, like their website and the labels themselves, offer a detailed description of what you’re drinking.

“I don’t really like the chalkboard thing because I don’t think there’s enough information there.”  When ordering at a crowded bar, “you have to make a split-second decision and sometimes and you just order an IPA, or get the saison, or the blah-blah-blah.  But is there anything else about the beer other than the IBUs and the alcohol that I’m going to get from you?  Probably not.  That’s kind of a bummer.”

Great DJ here, though.

Mad Fritz is looking at doing appointment-only tastings again in the future, hosted by Zacherle, for those seeking a more in-depth experience “so they could get kind of a more deeper dive into the raw materials and their impacts.”

Can’t Ignore the IPAs

Being an iconoclastic beer maker does not mean Zacherle ignores the market completely and just does what he wants.  Mad Fritz usually has at least one or two IPAs available, including a gluten-free option.

“If you don’t have one [IPA] you’re not in business.  You gotta have hoppy beers.  I love hops, I just think there’s so many hoppy beers out there, [tasting here] is like ‘You’re at Mad Fritz!  Take a break!’

“If you truly love beer, you need to open your mind a little.  Experience other beers.  That’s how I think of it.  I truly love beer.  There’s so many wonderful styles that are out there to enjoy.”